Planting for Pollinators
GUIDELINES FOR SELECTING PLANTS AND PLANTING A POLLINATOR GARDEN:
WHY NATIVE PERENNIALS?
Why do we sell native perennials? Native wildflowers, particularly perennials, are perhaps the best source of pollen and nectar for pollinators, in both quantity and quality. Other growth forms, such as native trees, shrubs and vines, as well as many annuals and herbs, can be great additions to extend foraging options.
Selecting plants for pollinators is a rather specific task. The native pollinators of your area have a long evolutionary history tied closely with the native plants of your region and, understandably, have a preference for what they are used to, in some cases, they simply won't visit or can't digest most newcomer or exotic plants. Researchers such as Douglas Tallamy, author of Bringing Nature Home, see our Resources page, are finding that native insects NEED native plants, meaning plants native to your region.
Meanwhile, other researchers, like Annie White, a doctoral candidate at the University of Vermont, (who has a research plot on our farm, lucky us!) are trying to determine if cultivars of native plants, human-manipulated plant species that have, say double flowers, stronger colors or more compact growth, can be just as appealing to the local insects. Cultivars are generally identified in single quotations after the species name such as Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus', 'Magnus' being a cultivar of the native purple coneflower. It's sounding like there MAY be some cultivars that will satisfy the pollinators, but mostly they would rather you stuck to those true native plants.
I say, hey, we humans can adjust OUR aesthetic, and learn to love the maybe less showy true native plants and, in exchange, enjoy the incredible dance of the native pollinators and the satisfaction in knowing we are keeping our landscape ALIVE!!
Ideally, you would be selecting native wildflowers from seeds collected from a nearby source. We, at Northeast Pollinator Plants, are hoping to get there, but in the meantime, we are offering a second best option of native plants of our region from seeds collected at many sources, many likely not locally-collected. My anecdotal experience is, from the plants I've planted, the bees still seem to be pretty happy, but really, that statement is not based on a controlled experiment. So...
If you are a willing seed-collector of species we are offering, and in the New England and New York states region, please let me know!! We could use some help getting some eyes and hands out there gathering up very truly local native wildflower seeds!!
But how about the non-native, and oh so valuable, honeybees and their beekeepers? The pollinator plants offered here will be big hits with the honeybees, while attracting more native bees will make them more efficient foragers.
SIZING YOUR GARDEN AND SELECTING PLANTS:
An ideal pollinator garden should offer constant and overlapping flowering of native wildflowers from early spring to late fall. To do this, Xerces Society suggests selecting:
At least 9 species of wildflowers with 3 early-flowering, 3 mid-flowering and 3 late-flowering, offering a variety of flower colors, shapes and sizes to appeal to a diversity of native pollinators AND,
Add at least 1 native grass for nesting sites and material, AND
Plant in swaths of 8 of each species for more efficient foraging.
Using these guidelines, we have created several Pollinator Garden mixes for varying sun/shade and soil conditions. Selecting the "84 Plants" garden collections will get you closest to the guideline, giving you 8 plants each of 10 flowering species plus 4 plants of 1 native grass species. You may also make your own collection or enhance your existing garden by selecting from the list of individual plant species.
Every little bit can help! Don't fret if you don't have the space or budget for meeting the guidelines suggested above, but plant what you can and know you are part of the solution.
"GARDEN" PLANTS OR "NATURALIZING" PLANTS:
You may have noticed already, we describe our plants in the Uses description as either "Garden" plants or "Naturalizing" plants".
"Garden" plants tend to be well-behaved and long-lasting and generally should be just fine in a garden setting. A note of caution though, these ARE wild flowers, so the Garden category is a relative term. You will find that some that are called Garden plants will still do a bit of reseeding and require a tad bit of weeding out each year. While others, like Echinacea purpurea, the beloved purple coneflower, can be frustratingly short-lived, but such a sweet plant we keep it in the Garden plants category.
"Naturalizing" plants, on the other hand, are ones that are more at the other end of the spectrum, being more short-lived but rather rambunctious in reseeding or spreading through rhizomatic roots, or both. These plants are more suited to a cottage garden or meadow situation, where the gardener allows the plants to spread and reseed as they please, with some gentle editing to keep the more aggressive spreaders from taking more "turf" than their fair share.
SUN-PART/SHADE-PART and DRY-MOIST/MOIST-WET, HOW TO JUDGE:
If your garden receives 4 or more hours of direct sun, it's safe for plants in the sun/part sun category. If less than 4 hours of direct sun, select plants in the shade/part shade category.
The dry-moist/moist-wet refers to the texture, or size of the particles, of the soil in your garden. Sandy soils have larger particles and tend to be dry while clay soils have tiny particles and tend to hold water longer and are often wet. Loamy soils are in the middle.
To test your soil, grab a small handful and squeeze it to form a ball in your hand. If the soil ball doesn't really hold together when you open your hand, you likely have pretty sandy, dry soils. If the ball holds together, try squeezing the soil out of your hand between your thumb and forefinger to form a ribbon. If you can easily form a ribbon, you likely have clay, wet soils. If the ribbon starts to form but breaks off quickly upon forming, it is likely loamy soil which gives you the most flexibility and can select plants rated for dry-moist or moist-wet soils.
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN:
It's a good idea to plan out your garden before you start planting. You can start by drawing out your plan or simply placing the pots on the prepared bed. We suggest laying out the wildflowers and native grasses about 2' apart, which would be 4 s.f. per plant. Multiply the number of plants you have by 4 and that's how much square foot space you should allow for your pollinator garden.
If you are planting a garden with ground covers plants, plant these plants in between your other pollinator plants/wildflowers that are at 2' apart; so that the whole garden is planted essentially with plants 1' apart. See the diagram here with o's for the pollinator plants/wildflowers and x's for the ground covers and g for the native grass.
It can be nice to arrange the plants in swaths of single species for a less chaotic look for us humans and for more efficient foraging for the pollinators, who tend to stick to one species at a time, before moving on to the next. Be sure to create places for you, the humans, to sit and observe the pollinators in action.
Also, you may want to consider pathways in your garden to allow wandering about to observe pollinators in action and to allow maintenance without stepping on your plants. Many of the native wildflowers can get pretty big, so leave at least 6'-8' between plants where you would like the path.
PREPARING YOUR PLANTING AREA:
The main goal when clearing an area to be planted to perennials is to turn the soil as little as possible, to avoid bringing weed seeds to the surface.
IF THE AREA IS CURRENTLY LAWN...
Bravo!! Replacing lawn with habitat is a win-win. Lawn provides little to no habitat while, according to the EPA, on average, mowing for one hour pollutes as much as driving your car 100 miles. For most folks, that translates your weekend mowing into polluting as much as your weekly commute! My motto: "Lawn only where you REALLY need it!"
Anyway, there are a couple ways to get rid of that lawn. The easiest and quickest, is to rent a sod-cutter and dump that nasty lawn in the compost pile. If you're truly industrious you can do this by hand with a spade or hand sod-cutter. If you're more patient than me, you can also rid yourself of the lawn by "sheet mulching" or "solarization"; this will require many months to a year. Web-search those words for plenty of tips on how to do that.
Once the soil is bare, you don't really want to amend the soil much as wildflowers are happiest in the more barren soils of the wild.
IF THE AREA IS CURRENTLY A GARDEN...
If the garden is weed-free, you're ready to plant. Amended soils, in other words, enriched with fertilizers and/or years of compost layering, can sometimes be too rich for wildflowers which tend to be happier in, as stated above, the more barren soils of the wild. Not much you can do to reduce the nutrient level, but let time take its course. Some of the wildflowers may stretch a bit the first couple years. I'll admit, I do tend to add a tiny bit of peat or compost in each planting hole, maybe just out of habit, but feel like it does help hold the moisture while the small plant is getting established.
PLANTING THE PLANTS:
We grow our plants in biodegradable pots which can be planted directly in the ground. There's no reason to remove the pot from the plant and a good idea not to disturb the roots anymore than you need to. You should, however, push down or peel off the very top edge of the pot to the level of the potting mix, so that the pot won't stick above the ground when you plant. If it did, it could wick dry and cause the plant to dry out too fast.
Plants in biodegradable pots tend to dry out more quickly than in plastic pots so be sure to keep your babies moist while they are waiting to get planted. Before laying out your plants, water them to near saturation and don't let them sit out too long in the hot sun or breeze to dry out.
Once you've got your garden planted, mulching is a choice. The majority of native bees are ground-nesting. Mulch is definitely a deterrent for nesting. If you're planting a garden with ground covers, no need to add mulch; but you should hoe your garden weekly for the first season and maybe a bit the next year, depending on when you planted, to reduce weed pressure while the ground cover is taking hold. If you do mulch your garden and don't have much bare sandy soil around, consider adding a designated bee-nesting-sand-box (18" deep) and make sure you label it clearly. Bee nesting and children's sand boxes are not a pleasant mix.
Keep your newly planted garden watered every day for at least the next two weeks, until those little roots are well established and out there doing the work of seeking out water and nutrients.
MAINTAINING YOUR POLLINATOR GARDEN:
First off, let your neighbors and visitors know you have planted a pollinator garden. A great way is to put up a "Pollinator Habitat" sign available from Xerces Society. http://www.xerces.org/pollinatorhabitatsign/ How about being counted and registering your garden with the Million Pollinator Gardens Challenge. http://millionpollinatorgardens.org/
Your new pollinator garden will need a moderate amount of attention, particularly the first couple years after planting to keep down the weeds while the plants claim their space and to keep in check the bit of reseeding some of the species may be prone to. If you have mulched your garden, you will likely need to put a fresh layer of mulch the first couple years, until the plants have truly filled in.
There should be no need to add any fertilizers and definitely NO pesticides for your pollinator garden.
ENJOY AND SEND US PICTURES!